In the heart of the Historic Center, on Paseo Fray Antonio Alcalde, two bronze dogs keep watch over the street from the top of a Porfirian-era mansion. That image gave the building its best-known nickname: the Casa de los Perros (House of the Dogs). Behind the facade there is much more than two sculptures: this was the site of the press that printed the first insurgent newspaper in the Americas, it was home to a family closely tied to José Cuervo tequila, and today it houses the Museum of Journalism and Graphic Arts. This guide to the Casa de los Perros in Guadalajara covers its history, its legends, what to see inside and how to visit.
📍 Visitor information: Where: Av. Fray Antonio Alcalde 225, Centro, across from Plaza de la Reforma. Hours: Tuesday to Friday 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. (closed Mondays). Admission: free. Getting there: a few steps from Independencia station on Tren Ligero (light rail) Line 3, and a 5-minute walk from the Cathedral and the Rotonda.
Why is it called the House of the Dogs?
The name comes from the building’s most visible feature: two statues of pointer dogs perched at the top of the facade, one facing north and the other south, like guardians of the house. They were cast by J. L. Mott Iron Works in New York, the same firm that cast the lampposts of the Teatro Juárez in Guanajuato, and they are said to represent pets that belonged to the original owner. Over time, locals stopped calling the house by its owners’ name and it became known for good as the Casa de los Perros of Guadalajara.
A history of printing presses and Mexican Independence
The site carries enormous historical weight. In 1792, the first formal printing press in Nueva Galicia (the colonial name for this region) was set up here, run by Mariano Valdés Téllez Girón under a license from the Real Audiencia. Its greatest moment came during the War of Independence: this press printed “El Despertador Americano”, the first insurgent newspaper on the continent, backed by Miguel Hidalgo’s movement and written by Francisco Severo Maldonado. Only seven issues were printed, between December 20, 1810, and January 17, 1811, with 2,000 copies each, sold for 2 reales. Its life was short (it ended after Hidalgo’s defeat at the Battle of Calderón Bridge), but it marked the birth of political journalism in Mexico.
📖 Related articles: Museums in Guadalajara — The must-see art and history museums | Things to do in Guadalajara — The top attractions
The house, tequila and José Cuervo
Here is the detail few people mention. The mansion you see today was built around 1896 by architect Arnulfo Villaseñor Carrillo, commissioned by Jesús Flores Arreola, a wealthy tequila producer who owned several haciendas. After being widowed, Flores Arreola married María Ana González-Rubio, who led the remodeling and expansion of the property. When he died, his widow married José Cuervo Labastida, who managed her properties and eventually became the owner of the company that makes the famous José Cuervo tequila. In other words, the Casa de los Perros is intertwined with the history of Jalisco’s most iconic drink.
If that connection sparks your curiosity about the world of agave, you can round out your visit with a tequila tour and José Cuervo experience from GDL Adventures, which visits the pueblo mágico of Tequila (one of Mexico’s officially designated “magic towns”), the agave fields and the historic distillery.
What to see inside the Museum of Journalism (MUPAG)
Since 1994, the Casa de los Perros has housed the Museo del Periodismo y las Artes Gráficas (MUPAG), one of the City of Guadalajara’s cultural venues. Walking through its rooms takes you through the evolution of communication in Mexico. Here is what you will find:
- Newspaper archive: a collection of Guadalajara’s first newspapers and publications, from Independence to the present.
- Antique printing presses and typewriters that show how newspapers were made in the past.
- Hands-on room for traditional printing and bookbinding.
- Radio booths, a TV set and a studio that look back at the media of the last century.
- Library, auditorium (seating about 80 people) and a large central courtyard.
- Temporary galleries with exhibitions on photojournalism, engraving, linotype and graphic arts.
The museum was closed from 2016 during construction of Tren Ligero Line 3 and reopened on April 28, 2022, after its structure was reinforced to protect it from construction vibrations.
📖 Related articles: Guadalajara Cathedral — A 5-minute walk away | Rotonda de los Jaliscienses Ilustres — Right next door
The legends of the Casa de los Perros
Like every old mansion downtown, the Casa de los Perros is wrapped in legends that every local knows. These are the most often told:
The dogs that come to life
The legend behind the house’s name says that on certain nights the two dog statues come to life and walk along the facade, keeping watch over the city. The verifiable story is more down to earth: the dogs have cracks and bullet marks, the result of being used for target practice by soldiers stationed in what is now the Secretaría de Cultura building.
The dream of the keys
The story goes that an elderly woman dreamed that the owner of the property handed her the keys to the house. Convinced, she and her husband went looking for the woman from the dream to claim the property, only to learn that she had died many years earlier.
The novena and the property deed
The most famous one: Jesús Flores’s doctor revealed that, as the old man was dying, he confided that whoever prayed a novena (nine nights of prayer) at midnight at his tomb in the Panteón de Mezquitán, with a candle lit, would receive the deed to the mansion. Several brave souls are said to have tried, and none came back unharmed to claim it.
How to get there and what is nearby
The Casa de los Perros is on Paseo Alcalde, across from Plaza de la Reforma, in the heart of the Historic Center. It is easy to reach on Tren Ligero Line 3 (Independencia station) or on foot from anywhere downtown. Since it is so central, it pairs well with other landmarks: Guadalajara Cathedral, the Rotonda de los Jaliscienses Ilustres and the Teatro Degollado are a few minutes away on foot.
📖 Keep exploring: Things to do in Guadalajara | Museums in Guadalajara | Hospicio Cabañas | Teatro Degollado
Frequently asked questions
How much does it cost to visit the Casa de los Perros?
Admission to the Museum of Journalism and Graphic Arts is free. Check its social media for special hours or temporary exhibitions before you go.
Why is it called the Casa de los Perros?
Because of the two pointer dog sculptures on top of its facade, cast in New York and placed facing north and south. The nickname ended up replacing the museum’s official name in everyday use.
What are the museum’s hours?
Tuesday to Friday 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. and weekends 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. It is closed on Mondays.
What can you see inside?
A newspaper archive with Guadalajara’s first papers, antique printing presses, typewriters, radio booths, a TV set, a hands-on printing room and temporary graphic arts exhibitions.