History of the Panteón de Belén
A cemetery is not usually the first thing that comes to mind when you plan sightseeing in Guadalajara. Few cemeteries in the world combine beauty, charm and a sense of mystery, and Guadalajara’s old Panteón de Belén is one of them.
Officially named the Cementerio de Santa Paula, this 19th-century landmark is a showcase of funerary architecture from several periods. It was built at the request of the bishop of the time, Diego de Aranda y Carpinteiro, and designed by the renowned architect Manuel Gómez Ibarra, who also designed the iconic towers of the Guadalajara Cathedral. It opened in 1848 and operated for just under 50 years, until it was closed on November 1, 1896. The Consejo Superior de Salubridad (the health council of the time) closed it for sanitary reasons, even though the cemetery had not yet reached full capacity.
When it opened, the Santa Paula cemetery had two courtyards: one for the lower classes and a second one, which still survives, for Jalisco’s elite of the time. The courtyard used to bury the poor was closed, and the land was used to build a hospital complex. The specialty tower of the Hospital Civil stands there today.
Many prominent figures in politics, education, science, music and literature were buried here. Among the most beautiful tombs are the mausoleums of the Cuervo and Luna Corcuera families, designed by architect and painter Jacobo Gálvez, and those of the Remus and Castaños families.
The center of the cemetery once held the Chapel of Illustrious Men, with the remains of notable figures from Jalisco. In 1952 those remains were moved to the Rotonda de los Jaliscienses Ilustres (Rotunda of Illustrious Jaliscans) in downtown Guadalajara.
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The Panteón de Belén Today
Although no burials have taken place here for more than 120 years, the cemetery is still open to the public so visitors can see its interior. Today it works as a museum and cultural venue that hosts talks and art exhibitions on different aspects of Guadalajara’s history. It has become a city landmark because locals have made it their own through its legends, some based on real events and others entirely made up.
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Legends of the Panteón de Belén
Guided tours are offered both during the day and at night. Daytime tours focus on the cemetery’s architecture. Night tours tell the many stories and legends surrounding the people laid to rest here.
The best-known legend is about a vampire who was killed by townspeople frightened by the bodies of people and animals that kept turning up with fang marks on their necks. With the help of a “vampire expert,” the locals decided the vampire was Count Baldor, a man from Hungary with strange habits who, oddly enough, only went out at night. One night they found the count on the edge of town holding the bloodied body of a woman. One of the men made a stake on the spot and drove it into the vampire’s heart.
Afraid that Count Baldor might rise from his grave to take revenge, they buried him much deeper than anyone else. Over time, a large tree grew from the vampire’s grave, and its strong roots cracked the headstone. People say the tree sprouted from the stake still lodged in the vampire’s heart.
Round out your visit to the Panteón de Belén with other downtown Guadalajara sights. Walk along Paseo Alcalde to reach the heart of the historic center, where you can visit the Teatro Degollado, the Palacio de Gobierno, the Metropolitan Cathedral and several interesting museums.