For four centuries, the Guadalajara Metropolitan Cathedral has been one of the city’s best-known buildings. Dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, it is the seat of the archdiocese and the starting point of one of the largest and most important pilgrimages in Mexico, the Romería (the annual procession that carries the Virgin of Zapopan back to her basilica).
Guadalajara’s First Cathedral
Although the building with the neo-Gothic towers is now a city icon, it was not Guadalajara’s first cathedral. The first one was built in 1541 on the site of today’s Templo de Santa María de Gracia, near the Teatro Degollado.
How the Current Cathedral Was Built
On the orders of King Philip II of Spain, construction of the current cathedral began in 1561 on what is now the Paseo Alcalde, with Fray Pedro de Ayala laying the first stone. After several delays caused by a lack of funds, the work was not finished until 1618. In April of that year, the Blessed Sacrament was moved from the old cathedral to the new one.
In 1818 a strong earthquake shook the city and left a new tragedy behind: the towers and the dome had collapsed.
The Iconic Towers of Guadalajara Cathedral
Years later the towers and dome were replaced, but the new ones also fell in a later earthquake in 1849. The towers you see today were built in neo-Gothic style by engineer and architect Manuel Gómez Ibarra, who took three years to finish them, around 1854. The story goes that their design was inspired by the tableware of the bishop at the time, Diego Aranda y Carpinteiro. They are decorated with yellow tiles brought from Sayula, a town 100 km (62 miles) from Guadalajara.
The Cathedral Today
The Guadalajara Cathedral is still at risk: it was damaged by earthquakes in 1932, 1957, 1979, 1985, 1995 and 2003. Its problems include a slight lean in the north tower, some sinking and structural damage to the dome, among others. Constant vibration from traffic in the tunnel under Avenida Hidalgo is also damaging the building and the north tower, which stands right next to that street.
The cathedral covers an area of 77.8 by 72.75 meters (255 by 239 feet). It has altars dedicated to Our Lady of the Assumption, Our Lady of Guadalupe, Our Lady of Sorrows, the Virgin of Zapopan (patron saint of Guadalajara), Saint Dominic de Guzmán, Saint Nicholas of Bari, Saint Thomas Aquinas, Saint Christopher and Saint John of God. There are 52 carved wooden seats plus the cardinal’s chair. The consecration table is made of marble and silver, and the stained-glass windows were imported from France.
Santa Inocencia and the Cathedral
According to the story, Santa Inocencia, whose body is kept incorrupt in the Guadalajara Cathedral, was a young girl who was killed by her own father.
Her father refused to let her receive First Communion, so she attended catechism classes in secret. With help from some nuns who were moved by her situation and found her a dress, she received the sacrament without her father knowing. When he found out, he flew into a rage and stabbed her in the chest.
The father ran away. Neighbors who heard the screams came to the house and took her body to the cathedral, where it has remained ever since. Today single women visit Inocencia to ask for help finding the love of their life.
Visiting the Cathedral and What Is Nearby
Admission to the cathedral is free, and it is open from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Keep in mind that several religious services take place during the day. Unless you want to attend one, it is best to visit between services so you do not disturb worshippers.
The cathedral is one of the top attractions in downtown Guadalajara, but there is plenty more worth seeing nearby. The four plazas around the cathedral, laid out in the shape of a cross, each have their own character. Plaza de Armas has a beautiful French-made bandstand known as the Kiosco de las Musas. Plaza de la Liberación has its famous fountains and the best view of the Teatro Degollado. The Rotonda de los Jaliscienses Ilustres (Rotunda of Illustrious Jaliscans) sits in the plaza north of the cathedral, and Plaza Guadalajara has a lovely fountain facing the cathedral’s main facade.
A short walk away you can also visit the Palacio de Gobierno, the Regional Museum, the Hospicio Cabañas and the Biblioteca Iberoamericana. If you walk north along Paseo Alcalde, you will reach Herrera y Cairo street, which leads to the main entrance of the Panteón de Belén. A bit farther away on López Cotilla street is the Templo Expiatorio, which many consider the most beautiful church in Guadalajara.
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📖 You may also like: La Minerva in Guadalajara, the city’s other great landmark, now open to pedestrians